For one week every August, Anguilla stops watching the beach and starts watching the water. Carnival Week Boat Racing is the beating heart of the island's Summer Festival, and from August 2 through 9 the whole place organizes itself around the start gun. This is not a side attraction to the parades and pageants. For a lot of Anguillians, it is the festival.

Boat racing is Anguilla's national sport, and it looks like nothing else in the Caribbean. The boats are open wooden sloops, hand-built on-island, with no engines and no cabins, carrying a towering wall of sail. Crews keep them upright with nothing but movable ballast and their own body weight, hiking out over the rail as the hull heels hard into the wind. They launch straight off the sand at Sandy Ground, and fans follow their favourite boats the way football supporters follow a club: loudly, loyally, and for life.